I am a Mazama and have climbed my mountains, ever since becoming a Mazama at age 13 (51 years ago) I dreamed of climbing Everest. That dream led me to read every book on Everest, watch every documentary, watch every movie, watch every video clip and read every magazine and newspaper article I could get my hands on on Everest. One of the subjects which captured my interest was Mallory and his life, climbs, and did he die coming down or going up. Before reading this book I thought he died coming down from the summit, but Conrad's book and his detailed analysis of everything and his first hand experience in attempting the 2nd step free style has changed my mind definitively. After reading this book, I don't believe that any serious climber can doubt that Mallory died going up and not reaching the summit. He may have been going up or went higher and was coming down, but there is little doubt that with his equipment, his boots and the 5.10 steepness of a 90 foot 2nd step climb - that he did not top the 2nd step. But even if he had, there is no way he downclimbed it without a flashlight. Even if he had a flashlight it would have been impossible with his clothing, climbing rope and boots. So Hillary was the 1st up Everest afterall. Read this book, it does a great job looking at what it was like climbing in Mallory's day and comparing it to Conrad's climb today, as well as Conrad - a great climber of tough routes - putting himself in Mallory's shoes in his time period and facing this climb.